So about two days ago I surfed my heat and ended up not making it. I needed a small score in the end and I somehow didn't complete my ride on my last wave. I did a pretty good flip and landed right in the barrel zone and I knew I didn't have enough speed to make it out of the barrel so I tried rolling out through the lip. That wasn't a good call because it just sent me straight to the rocks hitting allkine zones on my body. I got cuts and scrapes on my knee, foot, arm, and back. That's just the minor zones, the bruising and swelling after wards was the most painful part. My foot got pretty huge and I couldn't straighten out my knee the next day. Today it's feeling a lot better and I'm being optimistic that I'll be able to surf again on this trip. The waves are pumping and I want to get out there and surf somehow. I'm feeling good and I just wanted to say thank you everyone for the support. aloha and mahalo!
Surf photos by www.bodyboardnation.com
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Before my heat |
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My first wave score zone |
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Didn't make this zone |
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Trying to keep a smile after my heat even though I lost and I was hurting for sure |
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Knee scrape zone |
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Fat flinstone right foot zone |
Get well soon Jacob! what doesn't kill you makes you stronger! Keep focus, you got the skills to be in the top!
ReplyDeletemahalo!!!! thanks for the positive words and motivation! I will be back even stronger! aloha
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