I am leaving Arica, Chile today and will be going back to California. I had a really good time here in Chile. I've been here for a month and I enjoyed some sick waves, made some new friends, and got injured somehow. It's all good for sure! My foot and knee is healing nicely and I've surfed 3 times now. It's still a bit sore and stiff and I'm not 100%. The USBA US Open is coming up this weekend and I just want to rest my injury zones as much as I can so I will be ready to take care that event. Either way though, I'll be ready for sure! Below are some random lifestyle images of my time here in Arica. Thank you for all of the support everyone! I'll be back next year for sure. aloha and mahalo! Life is good :)
Monday, May 28, 2012
Thursday, May 24, 2012
Maui Images by Steve Wall
Earlier this year Steve Wall and Jason Finlay came to Maui to surf some of my home zones and enjoy some uncrowded sessions. They both were staying on Oahu before coming over and Finlay checked the forecast and messaged me saying he wanted to come over and get away from the crowds on the North Shore. Finlay is such a mellow nice guy and he has a lot of respect so I was like yeah man come over for a cruise. We ended up scoring some fun waves. I get stoked when my friends come over from different parts of the world. I like sharing the experience and joy I get surfing and cruising at home with good friends for sure. Below are some moments captured by Steve Wall. Aloha and mahalo!
Guy hags in the zone |
My brother Jonah and I waxing up our board zones |
Hags and my car cruising while Finlay is having a check at the waves |
Jonah and I checking the Harbor |
Little fun reverse zone at the Harbor |
Flipping like a full flip filipino with flipmode sticker cruising on board zone |
Another flip at an uncrowded home zone spot |
One of my most favorite waves at home. Just Finlay and I out on this session |
Invert hags |
Wednesday, May 23, 2012
Injury Update zone
So about two days ago I surfed my heat and ended up not making it. I needed a small score in the end and I somehow didn't complete my ride on my last wave. I did a pretty good flip and landed right in the barrel zone and I knew I didn't have enough speed to make it out of the barrel so I tried rolling out through the lip. That wasn't a good call because it just sent me straight to the rocks hitting allkine zones on my body. I got cuts and scrapes on my knee, foot, arm, and back. That's just the minor zones, the bruising and swelling after wards was the most painful part. My foot got pretty huge and I couldn't straighten out my knee the next day. Today it's feeling a lot better and I'm being optimistic that I'll be able to surf again on this trip. The waves are pumping and I want to get out there and surf somehow. I'm feeling good and I just wanted to say thank you everyone for the support. aloha and mahalo!
Surf photos by www.bodyboardnation.comBefore my heat |
My first wave score zone |
Didn't make this zone |
Trying to keep a smile after my heat even though I lost and I was hurting for sure |
Knee scrape zone |
Fat flinstone right foot zone |
Friday, May 18, 2012
Flipmode Clothing podcast
Check out this clip Flipmode Clothing and Lee Kelly put together. It's called All Kine Zones because it was filmed in Australia, Maui, and Oahu of last year. Also go to Flipmode Clothings website at http://www.flipmode.com.au/ and buy some fresh gear. aloha and mahalo
Thursday, May 17, 2012
Arica Zones
Arica has been fun for the first couple of days. Here are some photos from some free surf sessions. Also, Richard "Chout guy" Lornie is staying with Trevor and I getting the clips when he's not smoking ciggs. hahah, jk! Trials starts tomorrow. aloha everyone! yewww! All bodyboarding photos shot by Sacha Specker. The last frame grab is from Richard Lornie.
Richard guy
Monday, May 14, 2012
Aloha Antofagasta
Trevor and I will be leaving Antofagasta tonight for Arica via a 10 hour bus ride and I just have to say that this Antofagasta trip was amazing. The people here are friendly and they really took care of us. Ricky, Alfonso, and Hada opened there house to us and it really felt like home. Breakfasts, lunch(if we were home), and dinner where all shared at the same time on the table. We also played some nerf gun battles which was cool because I've never done that before and it felt like I was a little kid again. Even Ricky's aunt, Hada, was playing which I thought she was the MVP because she shot me in the head numerous times. haha. They also took us to eat some local Chilean food at this cool restaurant zone. I'd like to thank everyone in Antofagasta for showing us a good time and sharing amazing moments for sure. I will be back next year :) aloha and mahalo!!!!!!!!
If you can tell, my arm pits were sweating that means I had a blast for sure. haha. Ricky, Trevor, Alfonso, Liza, and Hada nerf times. |
Alfonso and Liza |
Don't mess with the hags. |
Lunch with Ricky, Alfonso's dad, hags, and Trevor. |
Local Chilean grind zones |
Hada and two Hawaiians. She is a legend for sure! |
Helado zones |
Ricky and Alfonso. They were like my little brothers on this trip. |
Some of Ricky's friends. Good times. |
Last nights sunset. ALOHA Antofagasta! Muchos Gracias |
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